What makes Bobo different than other panicle hydrangeas?
- Very dwarf habit - just 2.5-3' tall and wide
- Unique flower structure is unlike any other
- Exceptional flower coverage - you can barely see the foliage when it's in bloom!
Name: Hydrangea paniculata 'ILVOBO' USPP 22,782; CBR 4910
Hardiness: USDA zones 3-8
Height + width: 2.5-3' tall and 3-4' wide
Light: Full to part sun
Soil: Any well-drained soil will do. Though dry conditions are unlikely to harm an established plant, prolonged drought will cause flowers to brown and wilt instead of develop a good pink color.
Pruning: Blooms on new wood; prune back by one-third in late winter/early spring for better habit and a slight improvement in stem strength.
Water: Average water needs. Does not tolerate wet conditions.
Fertilizer: Fertilize once in early spring with a rose fertilizer if desired.
Bloom time: Early-mid summer
Bloom color: The color the blooms turn is a genetic trait that develops with the natural aging of the cells in the florets, and is not influenced by any condition in the soil, like pH level. You can’t change panicle hydrangeas’ color by treating with aluminum sulfate or planting in acidic soil – they will always stay in the pink/red range.
Uses: Bobo hydrangea is small enough to grow in containers, mix into perennial gardens and flower beds, as well as incorporate into landscaping as a hedge, specimen, mass planting, etc.
If you are completely new to gardening, panicle hydrangeas make an excellent place to start: not just because they are so easy to grow but because they are one of the most rewarding garden and landscape plants. They are very long blooming, exceptionally reliable, and adaptable to a wide range of conditions. Here's our in-depth look at how to be successful growing panicle hydrangeas.
Panicle hydrangeas are probably the most cold and the most heat tolerant of all popular hydrangeas. They thrive and bloom reliably from chilly USDA zone 3 through balmy USDA zone 8 (even zone 9 in the case of 'Limelight'). Close to 90% of North America can grow them!
There's a panicle hydrangea for every site and situation these days! Though they are traditionally quite large, reaching 8'+ at maturity, there are several dwarf varieties now that stay under 5' tall. If you need a small hydrangea, we recommend that you select a dwarf variety instead of trying to manage the height of a full sized variety. Trying to keep a large panicle hydrangea smaller through pruning will quickly become a headache, as its the volume of the root system that determines how much it will rebound after severe or frequent pruning. Starting with a smaller variety, like Fire Light Tidbit or Little Lime, will make your life easier and result in a much more attractive plant.
These are the most sun, heat, and drought tolerant of all hydrangeas, and we recommend at least some sun each day for the strongest stems and the most abundant flower set. In zones 3-6, they can easily take full sun (6+ hours of bright, direct sun). In zones 7,8, and 9, they should be planted where they will be shaded during the hottest part of the day, but not deprived of sun entirely: filtered light, or a few hours of morning sun, will give you the best results. Panicle hydrangeas will survive in shady sites, but their flowering will be substantially diminished, stems may not be as strong, and flower color will be muddy instead of the rich, clear tones you see on our site.
Panicle hydrangeas are not fussy about soil, as long as it is well-drained. If there's one thing that will cause your hydrangea to fail, it's definitely wet or poorly drained soil. This is why we recommend that you do not add any kind of potting mix, topsoil, compost, etc., when you plant a panicle hydrangea. As for pH, they can grow well in acidic to slightly alkaline soils. Many people also wonder whether they can grow panicle hydrangeas in clay soils, and the answer is yes, provided that the clay is well-drained and doesn't stay wet for prolonged periods. If you have clay soil, starting with the small quart plants that we offer is an easy way to minimize digging and get a plant off to a good start.
Panicle hydrangeas don't strictly need fertilizer, but will grow a bit faster if they get it. Fertilizers can also be useful in places where the pH tends more to the acidic or alkaline side, which can induce nutrient deficiencies. For most situations, applying a rose fertilizer once a year in early spring is sufficient. However, you can fertilize monthly through late July if you want your plant to grow more quickly or notice the foliage looking pale.
The flowers of panicle hydrangeas all start out white (or green, in the case of 'Limelight', Limelight Prime, and Little Lime). As the blooms age, most begin to take on tones of pink, red, and/or burgundy. This is a natural progression and it cannot be manipulated in any way: no matter what your soil is like, no matter which variety you grow, they will always turn pink/red. If, however, your flowers are turning brown before flower color develops, this indicates that the plant dried out during its bloom time. This can also happen in hot climates when night time temperatures are consistently high (70°F+).
Panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood - this is what makes them so reliable and so forgiving in terms of pruning. While pruning isn't strictly necessary, we do recommend it in most cases: it helps to create the strongest, thickest stems, as it ensures the growth for the year comes from the bigger buds lower down on the stems rather than the typically skinny buds at the tips which were created late in the previous season.
We recommend cutting the entire plant back by about one-third its total height in early spring. You can also remove any thin side branches at this time, as well as any wood that's not showing signs of life. If you prefer, you can do this in late autumn/early winter, you'll just want to wait until the plant is completely dormant before pruning. Our preference is generally to prune in spring, because this leaves the dried flower heads in place all winter, which are much nicer to look at than a bunch of cut-off branches. However, if you are concerned about snow load, or will be away from your house when spring pruning would be appropriate, the plant will not be harmed with late autumn pruning.
Panicle hydrangea problems
Overall, your panicle hydrangeas will have few issues with pests or diseases; most issues that arise are cultural (due to the way the plants are being grown). Yellowing leaves are the perfect example, as they tend to develop on plants that are getting too much water, or plants that begin to shade their inner portions as they expand in size. A small number of yellowing leaves on a panicle hydrangea is not a problem, particularly the yellowing is confined to the interior portions of the plant.
The most likely disease to pop up on a panicle hydrangea is leaf spot. These are caused by a fungus, and though they may look a bit unsightly, they don't harm to the plant. Leaf spot fungus lives only in the leaf tissue, so once the plant drops its foliage in autumn, the leaf spot itself no longer impact the plant. However, it can come back if you don't clean up the fallen leaves (this is where the fungal spores will overwinter), and/or if conditions are favorable for leaf spot to develop, which can include plants in too much shade, and plants that get regularly pelted with water from a sprinkler system or roof overhang.
Insects generally leave panicle hydrangeas alone, though they can get nibbled by beetles. These typically don't impact the flowers, and a bit of insect feeding on the leaves is not problematic.
You may find a bit of slug damage, which is recognizable for its irregular, uneven appearance, especially on younger plants or those in the shade. This isn't normally a cause for concern. Deer, however, can cause major issues for panicle hydrangeas: they especially love to eat the flower buds and may eat them before they are even noticeable to the human eye. If this happens, unfortunately, that takes away the blooming for that year. Deer damage becomes less likely the larger the plant gets, so if deer are frequently a problem in your yard, protect your plant especially in winter and early spring for its first several years. Rabbits typically leave all but young plants alone, so you may want to protect against their nibbles as well.
NO RISK 60 DAY GUARANTEE
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Have a problem with your plant? We make it easy to place a claim via email or use the chat bubble. Simply send us a photo of your plant, your order number, and a brief description of the problem within 60 days of receipt of your order. Orders from US are eligible for refund or replacement; Canadian orders are eligible only for refunds. All refunds are based on the plant cost and do not include shipping charges. Allow up to 2 weeks for processing refunds.
After 60 days, we cannot be responsible for the plants in your care and will not cover problems with overwintering, animals, insects, diseases, improper planting, drought, flooding, poor drainage, etc. Our goal is that you are successful with our plants (and gardening in general), so our expert staff is here to assist you with any problem you may experience.
Any plant shipped dormant in spring is guaranteed to break dormancy, even if it takes longer than 60 days.
Please note: our guarantee does not cover plants grown outside of their recommended growing zones. Verify your USDA zone by clicking 'Growing Zone' in the site navigation and entering your zip code before purchasing.
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Did you receive an order after September 1? If so, it falls under our fall guarantee. We want to ensure your plants establish in your garden and return the following spring. Therefore, the warranty on your plants is extended to May 31 the next year. Ensure you contact us with images, your order number, and a description of the problem before May 31.
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Any plant shipped dormant in the spring is guaranteed to break dormancy even if it takes more than one month. Call us directly if you have any concerns.
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A plant refund is based on the plant cost less discounts and shipping charges. Allow up to 2 weeks for processing. We reserve the right to request a return of an item.
After 60 days, we cannot be responsible for product that is in your care. This includes overwintering, animals, insects, diseases, poor planting, plants beyond their hardiness zone, drought, flooding, etc. Our expert staff is here to assist you with any problem you may be experiencing. Our goal is that you are successful with our product.
Growing already in early spring - I cover them w buckets if our nights dip below 32.
I live above 6200 ft, three weeks in everything is growing great even with having to cover several times due to hail! Hope they winter over! This goes for all the plants I received
Because of the extreme heat in Dallas and Texas so far this summer I have chosen to transplant the quart size plants into gallon containers with the intent to transplant them in early fall to allow them to establish their root systems before next summer. So far they have not put on any new growth, so I assume they are getting settled into their new pots and hopefully growing a strong root system.
I was a little disappointed with the size of the plants. I guess I thought they would be a little bigger. How many years before I get any blooms ??
It is difficult to say, because there are so many factors, however we say that you plants should be mature and producing an abundance of blooms within about three years. Following the theory of Steep. Creep, Leap; during year one you'll see foliage, but no blooms, since the plant is pulling lots of energy into a healthy, robust root system that will survive the winter dormancy period. However, once year two rolls around after winter dormancy, the plant will wake up in the garden and continue to grow. In the second season, you can expect to see blooms, though the plant hasn't quite reached its full size or full flowering potential. Finally, during year three the plant will take off and reach its full size. Flowers and foliage will be at their best and you can really see the full potential of your plant.
I ordered plants from several vendors this year, annuals, vegetables and perennials. Plants from Great Gardens were healthiest and packed better than the rest. You’re my go to in the future.