Limelight Prime® Panicle Hydrangea

Hydrangea paniculata

SKU: 43025

Size: One Quart
More information on plant sizes.
Price:
Sale price$21.99
Stock:
In stock

Description

Several specimens of Hydrangea paniculata growing in a field showing the distinctive cone shaped flowers.

If you are completely new to gardening, panicle hydrangeas make an excellent place to start: not just because they are so easy to grow but because they are one of the most rewarding garden and landscape plants. They are very long blooming, exceptionally reliable, and adaptable to a wide range of conditions. Here's our in-depth look at how to be successful growing panicle hydrangeas.

Hardiness/climate

Panicle hydrangeas are probably the most cold and the most heat tolerant of all popular hydrangeas. They thrive and bloom reliably from chilly USDA zone 3 through balmy USDA zone 8 (even zone 9 in the case of 'Limelight'). Close to 90% of North America can grow them!

Size

There's a panicle hydrangea for every site and situation these days! Though they are traditionally quite large, reaching 8'+ at maturity, there are several dwarf varieties now that stay under 5' tall. If you need a small hydrangea, we recommend that you select a dwarf variety instead of trying to manage the height of a full sized variety. Trying to keep a large panicle hydrangea smaller through pruning will quickly become a headache, as its the volume of the root system that determines how much it will rebound after severe or frequent pruning. Starting with a smaller variety, like Fire Light Tidbit or Little Lime, will make your life easier and result in a much more attractive plant.

Light

These are the most sun, heat, and drought tolerant of all hydrangeas, and we recommend at least some sun each day for the strongest stems and the most abundant flower set. In zones 3-6, they can easily take full sun (6+ hours of bright, direct sun). In zones 7,8, and 9, they should be planted where they will be shaded during the hottest part of the day, but not deprived of sun entirely: filtered light, or a few hours of morning sun, will give you the best results. Panicle hydrangeas will survive in shady sites, but their flowering will be substantially diminished, stems may not be as strong, and flower color will be muddy instead of the rich, clear tones you see on our site.

Soil

Panicle hydrangeas are not fussy about soil, as long as it is well-drained. If there's one thing that will cause your hydrangea to fail, it's definitely wet or poorly drained soil. This is why we recommend that you do not add any kind of potting mix, topsoil, compost, etc., when you plant a panicle hydrangea. As for pH, they can grow well in acidic to slightly alkaline soils. Many people also wonder whether they can grow panicle hydrangeas in clay soils, and the answer is yes, provided that the clay is well-drained and doesn't stay wet for prolonged periods. If you have clay soil, starting with the small quart plants that we offer is an easy way to minimize digging and get a plant off to a good start.

Fertilizer

Panicle hydrangeas don't strictly need fertilizer, but will grow a bit faster if they get it. Fertilizers can also be useful in places where the pH tends more to the acidic or alkaline side, which can induce nutrient deficiencies. For most situations, applying a rose fertilizer once a year in early spring is sufficient. However, you can fertilize monthly through late July if you want your plant to grow more quickly or notice the foliage looking pale.

Flower Color

The flowers of panicle hydrangeas all start out white (or green, in the case of 'Limelight', Limelight Prime, and Little Lime). As the blooms age, most begin to take on tones of pink, red, and/or burgundy. This is a natural progression and it cannot be manipulated in any way: no matter what your soil is like, no matter which variety you grow, they will always turn pink/red. If, however, your flowers are turning brown before flower color develops, this indicates that the plant dried out during its bloom time. This can also happen in hot climates when night time temperatures are consistently high (70°F+). 

Pruning

Panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood - this is what makes them so reliable and so forgiving in terms of pruning. While pruning isn't strictly necessary, we do recommend it in most cases: it helps to create the strongest, thickest stems, as it ensures the growth for the year comes from the bigger buds lower down on the stems rather than the typically skinny buds at the tips which were created late in the previous season.

We recommend cutting the entire plant back by about one-third its total height in early spring. You can also remove any thin side branches at this time, as well as any wood that's not showing signs of life. If you prefer, you can do this in late autumn/early winter, you'll just want to wait until the plant is completely dormant before pruning. Our preference is generally to prune in spring, because this leaves the dried flower heads in place all winter, which are much nicer to look at than a bunch of cut-off branches. However, if you are concerned about snow load, or will be away from your house when spring pruning would be appropriate, the plant will not be harmed with late autumn pruning. 

Panicle hydrangea problems

Overall, your panicle hydrangeas will have few issues with pests or diseases; most issues that arise are cultural (due to the way the plants are being grown).  Yellowing leaves are the perfect example, as they tend to develop on plants that are getting too much water, or plants that begin to shade their inner portions as they expand in size. A small number of yellowing leaves on a panicle hydrangea is not a problem, particularly the yellowing is confined to the interior portions of the plant.

Diseases

The most likely disease to pop up on a panicle hydrangea is leaf spot. These are caused by a fungus, and though they may look a bit unsightly, they don't harm to the plant. Leaf spot fungus lives only in the leaf tissue, so once the plant drops its foliage in autumn, the leaf spot itself no longer impact the plant. However, it can come back if you don't clean up the fallen leaves (this is where the fungal spores will overwinter), and/or if conditions are favorable for leaf spot to develop, which can include plants in too much shade, and plants that get regularly pelted with water from a sprinkler system or roof overhang.

Insect pests

Insects generally leave panicle hydrangeas alone, though they can get nibbled by beetles. These typically don't impact the flowers, and a bit of insect feeding on the leaves is not problematic. 

Other animals

You may find a bit of slug damage, which is recognizable for its irregular, uneven appearance, especially on younger plants or those in the shade. This isn't normally a cause for concern. Deer, however, can cause major issues for panicle hydrangeas: they especially love to eat the flower buds and may eat them before they are even noticeable to the human eye. If this happens, unfortunately, that takes away the blooming for that year. Deer damage becomes less likely the larger the plant gets, so if deer are frequently a problem in your yard, protect your plant especially in winter and early spring for its first several years. Rabbits typically leave all but young plants alone, so you may want to protect against their nibbles as well.

NO RISK 60 DAY GUARANTEE

We've got you covered with our 60-day guarantee. We guarantee that your plants will arrive healthy, free of pests and diseases, and true to name.

Have a problem with your plant? We make it easy to place a claim via email or use the chat bubble. Simply send us a photo of your plant, your order number, and a brief description of the problem within 60 days of receipt of your order. Orders from US are eligible for refund or replacement; Canadian orders are eligible only for refunds. All refunds are based on the plant cost and do not include shipping charges. Allow up to 2 weeks for processing refunds.

After 60 days, we cannot be responsible for the plants in your care and will not cover problems with overwintering, animals, insects, diseases, improper planting, drought, flooding, poor drainage, etc. Our goal is that you are successful with our plants (and gardening in general), so our expert staff is here to assist you with any problem you may experience.

Any plant shipped dormant in spring is guaranteed to break dormancy, even if it takes longer than 60 days.

Please note: our guarantee does not cover plants grown outside of their recommended growing zones. Verify your USDA zone by clicking 'Growing Zone' in the site navigation and entering your zip code before purchasing.

FALL GUARANTEE – SHIPPING FROM SEPTEMBER 1 – END OF FALL SEASON

Did you receive an order after September 1? If so, it falls under our fall guarantee. We want to ensure your plants establish in your garden and return the following spring. Therefore, the warranty on your plants is extended to May 31 the next year. Ensure you contact us with images, your order number, and a description of the problem before May 31.

OUR ROBUST PLANTS

We ship plants with hefty root systems that outperform smaller plants obtained from other mail-order nurseries.

SHORTAGES/DAMAGES

We take great pride in our packaging.  Please contact us immediately for any damaged boxes or shortages.  (Please note: multiple boxes shipped by Fed Ex might not always arrive the same day)

DORMANT PLANTS

Any plant shipped dormant in the spring is guaranteed to break dormancy even if it takes more than one month. Call us directly if you have any concerns.

PHOTOS

Photos of the plant(s) will be required so that we may provide the best assistance possible

REFUNDS

A plant refund is based on the plant cost less discounts and shipping charges.  Allow up to 2 weeks for processing. We reserve the right to request a return of an item.

PRODUCT CARE

After 60 days, we cannot be responsible for product that is in your care. This includes overwintering, animals, insects, diseases, poor planting, plants beyond their hardiness zone, drought, flooding, etc. Our expert staff is here to assist you with any problem you may be experiencing. Our goal is that you are successful with our product.

Customer Reviews

Based on 5 reviews
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Emily
Disappointed

They have had healthy but brown blooms all summer.

Hello! We are sorry that you're having trouble with your plant. It is possible your hydrangea could be dormant, allocating most of its energy to establishing a strong root system for next season. Please email customerservice@hydrangea.com pictures of the plant making sure to put your order number and name in the subject line so that we may provide the best assistance possible. Our customer service team will get back to you with more information. Thank you for your feedback.

E
Emily
So far disappointed

I planted them in the spring before they bloomed. They didn’t bloom earlier then my limelight’s, and didn’t stay white very long… it was maybe a month before they turned a dirty brown/green. All summer I have had not vivid fall like flowers, and from the road they look dead although up close the blooms are healthy flowers. The blooms are rather small… I am just praying that it is a first year issue and things will improve next year. Wish I planted regular limelight’s at this point.

R
Rozetta I.

Beautiful plants.

D
Desiree
Not sure yet

Hi not sure yet how I feel. In shipping they were really dried out and leaves were dry and crispy. I HAVE BEEN babying them since I got them. Haven't planted them yet because it is to hot have them in early sun late afternoon shade till Temps go a bit down and they kick back into health looking plants after I received them.

O
Olivia S.
Ok

I received my Limelight Prime hydrangea a little over 2 weeks after ordering. I knew they would be small, because there was only quart size available. They are TINY! The root system completely fell apart when I transplanted them. I was very disappointed. However I'm giving 4 stars because it has been 2 weeks and they are still doing ok. We will see if they survive a year. I did use biotone starter fertilizer.

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